We went to Calpe to see past the beaches — and found painted streets, the Spanish Steps, the Peñón de Ifach and the turquoise viewpoints of Morro de Toix.
We recently visited Calpe and wanted to explore more than just the main tourist areas. What we found was a destination full of colour, incredible views, historic streets and some seriously beautiful corners.
Almost everyone arrives in Calpe for the Peñón de Ifach — the 332-metre limestone rock that rises straight out of the sea — and plenty of people never get further than the beach beneath it. That is a shame, because the town behind it is where we had our best day.
Where we stayed — Terra de Mar Boutique
We stayed at Terra de Mar Boutique, a small place with only twelve rooms, a relaxed atmosphere and genuinely friendly staff. The location was great for us: close to the old town and the Spanish Steps, with a beautiful outdoor terrace to come back to at the end of the day.
One thing worth knowing before you book anywhere in Calpe: the old town is uphill from the beach. That is lovely for the views and less lovely at 3pm in August.
Calpe Old Town and the Spanish Steps
The old town is all narrow streets, painted houses, murals and tiled details, and it climbs the hill in tight turns above the seafront. The colourful Spanish Steps sit right in the middle of it and are every bit as photogenic as they look online — go early if you want them without a queue.
We spent a couple of hours doing nothing more organised than looking for the next mural, and the children were happy doing it, which does not happen often.
- Traditional streets and painted facades
- Murals, mosaics and hand-tiled doorways
- The colourful Spanish Steps
- Small squares with restaurant terraces
Peñón de Ifach
The Peñón is a protected natural park and it dominates everything in Calpe — you see it from the beach, the marina, the old town and from right across the bay. There is a path onto the rock, and the higher route is a proper hike: steep, rocky and exposed.
Access to the park is managed, so please check the current access, booking and hiking requirements before you go rather than turning up and hoping.
Morro de Toix — our favourite find
Morro de Toix, on the headland at the southern edge of town, gave us the best views of the whole trip: panoramic cliffs, turquoise water and the Peñón standing out across the bay from an angle most visitors never see.
The route can be steep and rocky in places, so good footwear, water and sun protection are essential.
Where we ate
We ate in the old town, where the terraces are smaller and better value than the seafront rows, and we had one of our best meals of the trip at El Torito, a Mexican restaurant — not what you expect on the Costa Blanca, and a great family evening.
Opening times vary a lot outside the summer season, so it is worth checking before you set your heart on somewhere.
Calpe with kids
Plan around the hills and the heat: we did the climbs early or late and kept the middle of the day for the beach.
- Sandy beaches either side of the rock
- A flat seafront promenade for scooters and pushchairs
- Colour hunting through the old town
- Photo spots that turn a walk into a game
- Family-friendly restaurants
Good to know before you go
- Comfortable footwear for the old town
- Take water in summer
- Sun protection is essential
- Allow time to explore away from the main beach
- Check current access arrangements before hiking the Peñón de Ifach
- Morro de Toix involves steep and uneven terrain
- Check restaurant opening times before travelling
Planning your own trip to Spain?
Everything we found in Calpe is collected on our Calpe destination guide, and there is plenty more along this stretch of coast in our Costa Blanca guides.
Explore more destinations with Spain with Sylvia as we discover the beaches, towns, hidden gems, food and experiences that make Spain so special.
